neurotic Iraqi wife

The Green Zone...I got two comments in my last post asking me what do we do in the Green Zone and what its like there. Well, I hope I can answer those two questions as much as I can.

Remember the song "Follow the Yellow Brick Road" from the Wizard of Oz story??? Well infact that was one of my favourate childhood songs. The Green Zone reminds me so much of that song, except the lyrics should be changed into "Follow the drabby T walls" and you know you are in the GZ. Ive posted a few months back how its like a prison to many of us who live there, yet its freedom to those who come from the Red Zone. Though what makes every Iraqi cringe, is when you enter the once spectacular Palaces, and see them wrecked. The once glowing marbles have deterioted. The richly done paintings either tarnished or taken. The lavish furniture, either stolen, or torn. Everything, everything that was once regarded by Iraqis as untouchable, has gone, lost its lustre. Nothing was preserved, all the history, all the artefacts GONE...

I blame the Iraqis for this. All those who looted and stole, took away a piece of their own country and sold it to the outside. It also gave reason to any non Iraqi to do just the same. I know of many soldiers who broke stuff, just to take a piece of it home, as a souvenir of their times here. But these things should have never been left like this...Never. I know that many people get tempted, and I dont blame them for these events that we are living and fighting will be engraved well into the history books. But it should have been protected and put to better use for the Iraqis to see and feel.

If you go to any Eurpean country, even Egypt, you would see how most of the palaces were converted into museums. These once lavished palaces would have been one of the Best landmarks that Iraq would have apart from ofcourse Babylon, Ur etc...Even though Saddam's era was one of utter terror and torture, its a pity no one thought of perserving that era's history. The palaces, all occupied by companies, or military. Occupied and trampled on. No one thought of perserving the art that was in these palaces. The master pieces, maybe only a few remain. The rugs, the treasures. Yes I know people are dying, I know that the least thing on anyones mind is preservation, but it really does make many of us Iraqis filled with sadness and anger at the same time. Iraq's 35 year history all smashed to pieces and sold.

The GZ my dear was once surrounded by beautifully kept gardens, look at it now, the green is dead, the streets are hollow. And all you see is darn T walls!!! Its Ironic how the concept hasnt changed. In Saddam's time it was the forbidden place. And three years after his fall this place is still forbidden.

The once lavish Rasheed hotel, my god, lost all what it was about. There is nothing grand about it anymore. Its yet just another building in the Green Zone. Thank God the fountain is still there...Al Rasheed was known for its quality and its food. I think it was last year sometime in October when HUBBY took me there for a Friday lunch. The coffee shop looked depressing, the food was really yuck and the bill was outrageous. You can smell mould in that place. Literally. You go out of the coffee shop and there are small shops that sell souvenirs. Anything from watches to flags, to silver antiques and rugs. There is another Dfac there, and they say its supposed to be one of the best. Tried it once, and didnt think of it as any better than the one I go to. Oh and ofcourse you cant just enter the hotel freely. That era is far gone. Now there are guards that ask for your ID and search you. After those two times, I decided I didnt want to go there again. And I never did after that. I guess it just reminds me of how deterioted the country has become...What was once a symbol of grandiose, has become a mouldy depressing place...

All Palaces in the GZ are now converted into offices. The major presidential palace is taken over by the Department of State. We call it the Embassy. No one is allowed in without an Embassy Badge. If you dont have one, like me here, you have to be escorted inside by someone who has the E on his badge. I had to go there a few times when I first arrived last year. They take your cell phones, the memory sticks, whatever you have in your pockets. Thats what they did to me. The first time I ever set foot in the Palace, My God, I had goose bumps. It was extremely surreal to know that Im walking on the same floor that Saddam walked on. Im inside the "Forbidden" place. I kept looking at the ceilings in awe. I remember, I was thinking to myself "Wallah Ya Saddam Ija il youm illee 3ammat il sha3ab yigidroon ishoofoon ishon 3ayish inta" which translates into, "Wow, Saddam, the day has really arrived where all the Iraqi public can see in their own eyes how you used to live".

The dining facility is what was once the kitchen, or so I was told. Its a massive place. So huge. Imagine the hundreds of soldiers and employees that it can hold. The food is ofcourse brought from outside, nothing produced in Iraq is allowed in. Everything from the ice to the salt and pepper comes from Kuwait, and thats global for all the dining facilities, even the one I eat in. I havent really ventured much in that Palace. I hate going there because if you aint a DOS employee, you are just looked down to. So I keep away from it.

Remember I had mentioned the Green Zone cafe??? It was like a small coffee shop/restaurant with a green and red tent. It was the only place that everyone enjoyed. Sadly, it was removed by Al Jaafari's govt, and has now become a police station.

The Blue Star which thank God hasnt been tampered with, is where Uday used to have his compound. The Zoo was there too. Again all these places are now occupied by foreign companies and their employees. You need ID to get into the Blue Star compound. You are basically paralysed without IDs in the Green Zone. I think its the same in the Red Zone.

There's a place called Al Qadisiya compound. Which used to be the residential area of "il haras il khas mal Saddam" Not sure what they are called in English. Umm, Saddam's Special ARmy Guards???(please correct my tanslation here). Which is now occupied by governmental officials and by people who lost their homes during the war. The ones who lost their homes are now being asked to leave these appartments and find elsewhere. Those who have contacts in the new government got to stay, the others were forced to leave. I know atleast 5 people from my workplace, that were given letters of eviction and have since left the place. Remember the place wher I mentioned eating grilled liver???Well its actually based in that compound. Theres an open area between the building blocks where the guy set some chairs and tables and a grill. Its like a little city in itself. Theres a local clinic, a school, a bakery, a mosque and a few small supermarkets and groceries. Its actually one of the only places that you go to in the Green Zone that gives you a slight taste of what its like on the outside. Hence HUBBY loves going there, even if its for a walk.

The place I work in was also some kind of landmark. It wasnt a palace, but it was something in the olden days, and I dont wanna give away too much. At the very entrance of the building, you can see Saddam's initials on the wall. S H engraved in Arabic. You wont notice it unless someone points it out for you. I definitely will take a picture of that. Talking of pictures, I think its a pretty sensitive thing for security reasons, and we are surrounded by security guards, but I dont think the S H initials will put anyone in danger.

Our organisation has 2 huge compounds. One used solely for offices, and on the opposite of the road is our sleeping quarters. I think Ive described our sleeping quarters before. You feel you are entering one of those YMCA's. Its like 10 or more 2 storey building blocks. And you have maybe 30 rooms or more on each floor. On every floor theres a common room, with a small utility room that has a washer and dryer. And ofcourse whenever your friend here wants to do her laundry, both machines are ALWAYS ALWAYS occupied. I mean theres no point putting dirty laundry in the dryer is there???So if you do bump into me here, Umm I do apologize profusely for my odor... Im just kidding, thank God I dont stink. We do have a dry cleaning facility run by Iraqis, I think its owned by the company Flour. You give them your clothes and after a few days you come and collect them. Neatly hung or folded, but umm you either receive shorter sleeves, or shorter pants, and besides I would rather do my laundry myself.

The compound also contains a gym and a dfac. All dfac's are KBR's. So now you know where the rebuilding money has gone. I read an article a few days ago about how 55% of KBR's rebuilding money is gone on life support. Yup and that money is used feeding me I guess...A few meters away theres Liberty pool, where mostly military guys go to for a swim. Some official parties are held there too. Been there once just to look around and hated it. I dont think I need to explain why. Id rather keep the reasons to myself.

The atmosphere here is very relaxed. As in culturally wise. You see women in mini skirts and shorts. Men in Hawaiin shirts and khakis. The other day I saw a woman in a mini skirt and knee high cowboys boots. If it wasnt for the military clothes, the humvees and hummers, the ugly Twalls, you would think you are in some type of a deserty resort, especially with the date trees lining up the streets.

I think I will keep the other question for the next post, as this has become a very very long one. Hope this post was informative. This place is a prison. A lavish prison. As I said earlier, you know you are in the Green Zone when you follow those Drabby T Walls...